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CAGES - Cages are not inexpensive. You will want to take the time to pick the right cage for your Quaker; one that your bird will be happy and safe in, and one that will please you esthetically, and is easy to maintain and service. Most Quakers are active birds. Fancy scroll work may look nice, but an active Quaker may get toes, nails, tail, or beak caught in scroll work. Zinc and lead are toxic and may affect the health and behavior of your bird. Adverse affects of zinc and lead poisioning may not be immediately noticeable, but can accumulate over time and are difficult to treat and reverse. See Resources and PAINT/LEAD/ZINC to learn more about zinc. Before purchasing a cage, it is best to check with the manufacturer to determine the type of metal the cage is made of and what type of coating or finish has been applied. Stainless steel proves to be the safest cage material to date, and it would follow, it proves the most expensive.

The cage should be provided with perches in a varity of textures and diamaters that are appropriate to Quaker foot size. Natural branches are best, providing exercise and entertainment. Because wood is porous, it must be cleaned or replaced frequently. Cotton and rope perches should not be treated and should be constantly checked for fraying. If your Quaker likes to chew, cotton and rope perches may not be the best choice. Sandpaper perches and plastic perches are not recommended. Sandpaper perches can cause sores on feet and crop impacting if ingested. Plastic perches are slippery, and if broken, can splinter.

Poop sometimes travels sideways, usually down, but never up! Place food dishes out of the line of fire; not on the cage bottom, but easily accessible. Again, stainless steel provides the easist material to clean when it comes to cages and food dishes.

More information on cages is available at: FEATHERED FUN, SAFETY FIRST

ENTERTAINMENT - Some Quakers must be taught to entertain themselves. Toys must be provided as an entertainment source. Quakers need to chew, and some like to weave and build. Use common sense and do a little homework before purchasing toys for your Quaker. Just because a product is available for purchase does not mean it is safe for your bird to play with. Look for toys free of strings and those that will not fray, so your Quaker will not get tangled up in them. Choose toys free of chemical treatment, unsafe dyes, glue, and paint. Remove metal clasps used for hanging toys and replace with plastic or stainless quick links. Make sure any bells have large, very secure clackers, or remove the clacker entirely. If a toy has leather, ask if the leather is vegetable tanned and dyed.

FOOD -Quakers are prone to fatty liver disease. This means feeding an all seed diet which includes seeds high in fat, such as sunflower and safflower seeds, may shorten your Quaker's life. Avian vets will recommend a formulated diet, which will include either pellets, crumbles, mashes, or the like for your Quaker, along with fresh vegetables, cooked legumes, rice and grains. A good brand of pellets will include the vitamins and minerals your Quaker needs. When a formulated diet, such as a pelleted one, is fed, vitamin suppliments are unnecessary and if administered without consulting your vet, can prove toxic to your bird. Some finicky Quakers, or Quakers who have been on an all seed diet for an extended length of time, can be more difficult to convert to pellets or crumbles than those introduced when they are weaned. See PELLETS, DIET, & FLD for pellet manufacturers and tips for converting your Quaker to a formulated diet.


Information presented on the QPSerc pages is gathered from avian articles, books, reference materials, and the result of extensive discussion with Quaker owners, breeders, researchers, behaviorists, and avian veterinarians . It is not intended to replace the valuable information which your personal avian veterinarian shares with you.

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