QUICK PICK MENU THE QUAKER PARAKEET DISCUSSION LIST STATE BY STATE VETERINARY LISTINGS
The Association of Avian Veterinarians Birds are excellent at hiding disease. In nature, appearing ill attracts the attention of predicators looking for easy prey. There are signs that can help assess if a bird has a health problem: 1. Lethargy. Prolonged periods of being fluffed up. Excessive sleepiness. Change in personality (quieter, less vocal). 2. Signs of drowsiness, or even bad breath. 3. Changes in feather condition or failure to replace old feathers. (Broken feathers are not a sign of disease. Feathers do break at times, especially in clumsy youngsters. Feather condition of baby birds and/or recently weaned birds is also usually not as good as the adult feather condition. There is a difference between deformed feathers and 'broken or soiled' feathers. A molt should produce a good plumage. If it doesn't, there may be a problem. Read more about FEATHERS.)4. Sneezing, coughing (clicking sound), difficulty in breathing, discharge from nostrils. 5. Weight loss (i.e., prominent breastbone). (On most birds you will feel the breastbone, but an exceedingly prominent or clearinly visible breastbone can be a sign that your bird is losing too much weight.) 6. Eye discharge. Crusty or swollen eyelids. Eyes appear cloudy or bulge. 7. Loose droppings, or droppings that contain undigested food, such as seeds. Changes in color of droppings should be noted. (Colored pellets, a change in diet, and certain "human foods, such as fruits and dark, leafy,green vegetables, may also change the color and texture of dropping. If you have concerns about your Quaker's droppings, consult your vet.) 8. Seizures. Circling. Paralysis. 9. White crust around beak. 10. Swollen joints. Wing, toe, leg deformities. Favoring one leg over the other. Not holding wings the same way. |
Veterinarians, Choosing A Veterinarian, And What To Expect At The First ExaminationAvian medicine is specialized and relatively new. There are many vets who are experienced and practiced in avian medicine. Not all are Board-Certified. Some may be members of the Association of Avian Veterinarians, without being Board-Certified. Those vets who are members of the AAV, benefit from the mission of the Association, which strives to educate its members through seminars, conventions, journals, programs, newsletters and published papers. A Board-Certified Avian Veterinarian is certified as an Avian Practice Specialist by the American Board of Veterinary Practitioners. To become Board-Certified, a vet is required to have documentation of six years of significant avian practice experience or a formal residency plus scientific papers. Additionally, they must go through a rigorous series of examinations. How does one choose a vet for their bird?You should speak with several vets before you make your decision on which vet is right for you. Talk to friends who own birds about the vets they use before you begin making phone calls to vet offices, or before visiting them in person. This helps you to narrow down your search. Avian related online discussion lists, such as the Quaker Parakeet Discussion List are wonderful places to talk to other Quaker owners about which vets they use and the methods their vets use for examination and testing. QPSRAPP and RAPP Support have an extensive state by state veterinarian listing compiled from recommendations of RAPP volunteers. The Association of Avian Veterinarians has a search for AAV members on their website. The most practical idea is to have a vet in place before you bring your bird home. The process of choosing the right vet for you and your bird should not be left to a time when the bird shows signs of illness. Birds are very good at masking illness. This is an instintual behavior which domestic birds have retained. Often, if a bird is exhibiting outward signs of illness, it may be so sick that it will be difficult or impossible to treat. When a bird is ill, it is not the time to be searching for a vet. Regardless of the health guarantee you may have been offered at purchase, it's a good idea to have your own vet preform a health exam on your new bird, preferably on the way home from picking up the bird. For some birds a vet visit might be stressful, but, if you can bring your new bird to your vet on the way home from purchase, you can get the examination and any necessary grooming out of the way. The new bird can begin to acclimate to its new home, and to you, without the added stress of a vet visit. It's over! You can then be rest assured that your bird has no health issues, or if the exam did uncover any health issues, you and your vet can work together to rectify them immediately. What to askWhen you interview a vet, either in person or on the phone, it's helpful to have a list of question written down that you can check off as you ask them.Here's some question you might want to include. The Comfort ZoneIt's essential that you feel comfortable with your vet. When interviewing a potential vet, do they seem to show interest in birds? Can they explain, to your satisfaction, the answers to your questions? Are they open to the idea of obtaining a second opinion if needed? Do you believe the vet will tell you if they don't know or are unsure of something? What does your intuition tell you? Do you feel comfortable with and confident in this vet? Because avian medicine is specialized, finding a Board Certified or AAV membered vet can prove a bit more difficult. Most will be located in or near cities. Sometimes, it's appropriate to have 2 vets if you are not located near a Board certificed vet or AAV membered vet, in the event of an emergency or life-threatening situation. The vet you might choose for emergency situations should have avian knowledge and should feel comfortable treating a bird in an emergency situation, and should be willing to refer your bird and its records of treatment to its avian vet, should further treatment or testing be required. Trust Your Eyes and EarsTake a tour of the vet facility. When you visit, your eyes and ears will tell you a lot. You should feel welcomed when you enter the reception area. Is the facility clean? Does there appear to be adequate equipment? Is there enough area to adequately house animals who must stay overnight or longer? Is there a surgical area? If you see other clientele during your tour, do they appear to be comfortable as the setting and their situation will allow, with the facility and the vet(s)?
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The New Bird ExamYour new Quaker is new to you. You are new to your Quaker and the Quaker will also be new to the vet! Here are some of the things the vet will be looking at during the new bird exam: The vet will want to see how your Quaker perches to check for arthritis, splay leg*, any fractures or deformities and age appropriate agility in climbing, and will look for tail bobbing, which at times indictes respiratory disease. Listening to the bird's breathing will alert the vet to any respiratory problems.The nostrils will be checked to ensure the nostrils are not clogged or showing signs of discharge. *splay leg- a leg and/or pelvic socket deformity found in nestinglings. There are several causes for splay leg; nutritional deficencies in parent or baby, trama, inappropriate nesting surfaces, postion of the egg in the parent body, and how the parent may have sat on the egg. Splay leg should and can be corrected when the bird is still very young and if the legs and hips are not deformed. The severity of the splay also plays a factor on successful reversal of the condition. Splay leg is a clearly visible condition, with the legs pointing in opposite directions. To learn more about the Quaker and avian respiratory system and overall avian anatomy, click on the Quaker Body Beautiful button. The vet will look for stress marks*, abnormal coloration, missing feathers, dull or dirty feathers. *stress marks- Black marks on feathers may be stress marks which are usually not serious and will generally molt out. Some stress marks may indicate the bird has been recently sick . Liver disease black marks are scattered on the feathers. Fortunately, the avian liver is a forgiving organ and fatty liver disease can be corrected with the proper regimen. In very young birds, it's quite common for them to have stress marks, due to the hatching and weaning process. The vet will check your Quaker's skin, beak, eyes, ears, cere, nares, oral cavity, bones, muscles, abdomen and vent for any abnormalities. The veterinarian will be interested in what you know about the background of your bird; its age, sex, origin, length of time in the household if you you are not bringing the bird directly from the purchaser, diet, and caging. The vet should be advised of any contact your Quaker has had, directly or indirectly, with other birds. The vet should weigh your bird. The weight should be measured in grams in order to detect small increments of change, rather then in ounces. TESTINGDepending on your new bird's history, results of physical the examination, age, and general condition, your veterinarian may suggest some diagnostic techniques that will help in evaluating your bird's health. DROPPINGSThe appearance of the droppings, volume, color, and composition, may help the veterinarian generally assess the bird's health and consider certain disease conditions. Most birds are a little nervous in the clinic, so their droppings may be a bit loose there. A fecal sample may be examined microscopically to determine the presence of internal parasites. Chlamyophila TestThe vet may test for the detection of psittacosis or parrot fever, (Chlamyophila psittaci). There are several screening tests available to detect Chlamyophila. This is important as part of the new bird exam and the well-bird, or annual check-up, because the causative agent, Chlamyophila psittaci, may be transmitted from birds to humans. BLOOD TESTSA blood sample may be taken to determine the amount and distribution of blood cells. This information may suggest the possibility of certain diseases, and further tests may be indicated for confirmation. A series of chemistry tests performed on the blood sample may point to imbalances in biochemical functions and suggest the possibility of organ dysfunction. Blood parasites may also be detected. CULTURESYour avian veterinarian may recommend a culture of the choana (throat), cloaca (vent), crop, or some other tissue/fluid sample to determine if there is any abnormal growth of bacteria or yeast. X-RAYSX-rays may be used to take a peek at the internal condition of your bird, checking for old or new fractures, the size and relative relationship of internal organs, the presence of foreign bodies or soft tissue masses such as tumors, and the condition of lungs and air sacs. The use of anesthesia may be necessary to produce quality X-rays. CytologyWith the use of special stains, a veterinarian skilled in this procedure can evaluate smears of tissues or fluids to assist in making a diagnosis. |
West Nile Virus: Carried by mosquitos, a big risk to hawks, owls, eagles, and some backyard birds, but it rarely affects pet birds. Avoid exposure to large numbers of mosquitos by eliminating standing water, keeping screens repaired, and keeping birds indoors at dawn and dusk. No vaccine has been proven to protect birds. You cannot catch the virus by touching a dead bird found in your yard. Exotic Newcastle Disease: This virus can affect pet birds, but is generally seen in chickens when exposed to fighting chickens smuggled in from Mexico. Avoid visiting poultry farms if you own parrots. Bird Flu: This virus has made headlines after a number of people in Asia have died from the disease. Once again, avoid contact with poultry to protect your pet birds. Beak and Feather Virus: Often abbreviated PBFD, this virus weakens the immune system and causes death due to other infections. It is potentially contagious thru the air or on clothing via feather dust, and is believed to only infect birds under 1 to 2 years of age. A bird may carry the disease for years without being sick, and can only be detected by a blood test specifically for that disease. No proven treatment or vaccine is available. Polyomavirus: A virus that usually only kills young chicks before they are completely feathered, but may also affect adult Eclectus Parrots and Caiques. Can be carried and spread by healthy looking adult birds, and can be spread thru the air or on clothing. Only testing can detect a carrier bird. A vaccine is available, and we recommend it for breeders and for susceptible pet birds. Psittacosis,( CHLAMYDIOSIS, ORNITHOSIS, PARROT FEVER- all the same name for an infectious disease caused by a chlamydial organism): A bacterial infection that can affect most species of birds as well as humans on rare occasions. A healthy looking bird can be shedding this bacteria for months or years before acting sick. This disease can be tested for and treated with antibiotics. Proventricular Dilatation Disease (PDD): A virus that attacks the nerves to the stomach or affects the brain. Birds of any age can apparently be infected by exposure to the droppings of an infected bird, or by parents feeding their chicks. There is no test or proven treatment for this devastating disease.
Fatty Liver Disease (FLD), Iron Storage Disease (Hemochomatosis): Because Quakers are believed prone to FLD and other avian liver diseases, we include special sections about FLD and Iron Storage Disease.QPS proudly sponsers theOTIS "ONE" FUND,which provides a perfect place for friends and members of QPS to make contributions in honor or memory of Quakers and their friends that will really make a difference. It is the perfect way to turn a tragic loss into a gain for Quakers everywhere. |
THE SCOOP ON POOP- Discussing your Quaker's droppings may noy be the most pleasent topic, but being able to examine and evaluate your Quaker's droppings could save your bird's life! Because birds ar so proficient at masking illness, one of the best ways to moitor their health is to monitor poop. First, a bird owner must become familiar with how avian droppings should appear and then, they should make a habit of observing their bird's dropping and become familiar what is a normal dropping for their bird. Normal droppings in pet birds consist of three parts. A bird passes a dropping out of one orifice, the vent, but all three portions of the dropping are mixed in the cloaca, (common chamber at end of digestive and urogenital systems), before leaving the body. The three parts of a dropping are: The urates are a by-product of the kidneys. They are usually snow white when dry. They are chalky in texture and will vary in size depending on the size of the species of bird. It is normal to have some transient color changes during the day and some colored formulated foods can tinge them a creamy color. The urine is the liquid portion of the poop and its normally clear. Volume of urine will change according to what your Quaker is eating. You will see more urine after consumption of fruits and vegetables. You will see less after your Quaker has eaten pellets. The feces, or stool, is the coiled or partially coiled part of the dropping. It varies in color from rich green to brown depending, as the other parts, on the bird's diet. It will be green for birds on a seed diet and for birds on a formulated diet it will reflect the color of the pellet. Certain fruits and veggies can also effect its color. Foods like beets, blueberries and others can give the stool their color, so, before you look at your Quaker's poop and begin to panic, recall what you have recently given them to eat! Now that we have an idea of the parts of poop and what is normal, we need to understand what might not appear to be normal. Urates are the result of digestion and metabolism of proteins in the bird's system and are removed through the kidneys. Green or yellow stained urates may be found in the clinically ill avian patient with liver disease. Green urates can also be found in birds that are actively suffering from infection with Chlamydophila. The urine is the watery waste from the kidneys. It should be clear. As stated above, the volume of urine in your bird's poop can change, but, it should remain clear. It is important to offer your Quaker a continuously fresh, clear water supply. Water that is unclean can host a varity of bacterial growth which will affect the health of your bird. Many bird owners prefer offering their birds water from a water bottle. Read more about water and water bottles. Loose feces or stool, or true diarrhea, can show up in one or two droppings due to stress or dietary change, but if you're seeing it constantly throughout the day it is cause for concern. The tubular formed feces will lose its shape and become mushy. Color changes in the feces to bright green or black and texture change to slimy is an indicator of trouble. EASY OBSERVATION- Because you should be observing your bird's dropping daily, you need to make observation and clean up as easy as possible. Black and white newspaper is the cage bottom/tray lining of choice for most bird owners. Most newspapers in the US are printed with soy based inks today, much safer than the petroleum oil based inks previously used. Cedar, pine, redwood, and pressure treated wood shavings are not recommended as they can prove dangerous for our birds, as can walnut and corn cob beddings. Read more about bedding. Newspaper is also a cost effective lining. Droppings on toys, perches, grates, cage bottoms, on all cage areas and play areas, should be removed and clened daily. Dried droppings are more theatening to bird and owner health than wet dropping. Dried poop harbors bacteria which is easily released in the air. |
QPS encourages you seek a well-bird, or annual check-up for your Quaker. As stated before, birds are masters of masking illness as an instinctual means of survival. A well-bird check-up will help to identify any underlying illnesses your bird may be hiding, and will give you, the owner, peace of mind. QPS also hopes owners of one or more birds, who are adding a new bird to their house, will quarantine their new bird, not only for the well-being of the new bird, but for any other birds residing in the household. It is advised that all newly acquired birds be maintained separately for a period of at least six weeks following purchase. Because many air-borne viruses may be spread from room to room by central air conditioning or heating systems, an off-premise location is preferred. Quarantine is essential for all new birds, even those that are believed to be "healthy".