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Information presented on the QPSerc pages is gathered from avian articles, books, reference materials, and the result of extensive discussion with Quaker owners, breeders, researchers, behaviorists, and avian veterinarians. It is not intended to replace the valuable information which your personal avian veterinarian shares with you.

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Toothbrushes should not be given to our feathered companions as toys. Many, if not most, toothbrush bristles are held in place by a metal wedge. This wedge is made of zinc which is harmful to our birds.



10 easy and inexpensive ways to intellectually stimulate your Quaker!

1. Paper Balls. Wad up a piece of paper with a treat inside. Make some balls without a treat. Place dozens of balls in the cage and food dishes and on top of the cage.

2. Paper Napkin or Paper Towel. Take the ends of the napkin and tie them in a knot to make a paper bow on perches and toys. Use a paper towel to wrap a new toy. It can be helpful with birds that are fearful of new toys because the paper towel is familiar.

3. Cups and Cones. Use small paper cups (no wax) or water cones to hide food. Place a small amount in the cup, crush it, and twist the top. Works great for wet food. Punch a hole in the top of the cup to hang from a quick link. Place the cups all over the cage.

4. Adding Machine Paper. Wrap branches and food dishes (toys too) with adding machine paper (use plain paper). Your bird will be busy shredding the paper off these items.

5. Paper Strips. Cut paper strips and weave them between the cage bars. Give your bird a bundle of paper strips to shred. Make a hanging toy by punching a hole in one end of the paper strips and hanging with a safe link.

6. Paper Shred. Pile shredded, recycled paper (clean and no staples) on top of a dish with dry food.

7. Paper Twists. Wrap small treats (such as seeds and nuts) in paper and twist the ends. Adding machine paper is a convenient size to make paper twists.

8. Paper Plates. Place a toy or treat on a paper plate and fold it in half. Punch a hole along the edge and hang. Option: Poke small holes in the plate before adding the treat.

9. American Origami. Make the simple folded paper toys you made as a child. Try a paper hat and other simple folded paper toys. Give your bird the paper toys. Hide treats in the paper to make them more interesting.

10. Paper Covers. Place paper over food dishes so your bird has to knock it off to get the food. If that's too easy, fasten the paper in place with a little masking tape.

Thanks to Barb Vickerman, Dr. Julie Burge, Mattie Sue Athan and the folks at Birds Just Wanna Have Fun for these great tips!

Brass is an alloy of copper and zinc! It's a no-no for toy parts and components!



FEATHERED FUN - SAFETY FIRST




Toys, toys toys! Birds need them for stimulation and independent play. There are so many bird toys available, it's difficult to make a decision about which and how many to buy. Toys are expensive. Not all are safe, or, some that might be safe for one bird, may not be safe for another.



If your Quaker is very young, it will take some time for you to discover how he or she plays. You may even have to teach your bird how to play with toys. Toys should be size appropriate. The toy fit for a Macaw, may not be suited to a Quaker, or the size might be intimidating. Do you have a bird that likes to chew? Subdued? An acrobat? Certain toys may not be suited for your bird, or only appropriate outside of the cage, under supervision. All in all, you need to know your bird and at the same time, anticipate that your bird can surprise you with behavior outside the ordinary at any time.

Pay particular attention to rope and string toys for fraying. Necks, toes and wings can quickly get caught up in loose and dangling threads and strings. Hanging is one of the greatest dangers and common occurences with bird toys which have rope and/or string and chains as part of their make up. Make sure any possible problem toy hangs next to a perch or close to the ground so the bird has a chance to get his footing and extricate himself if you aren't right there. It's always a good idea to have a towel in a handy location for wrapping a bird that might become hung up in a toy, along with a pair of scissors for freeing up tangles.

What is used to hang or attach a toy, is as important as the toy. Some links, like the one pictured to the left, can be pretty scary if your bird is adept at unscrewing them, or, the screw becomes loosen with play. The curve of the link makes it a perfect fit in the hole under a bird's lower mandible. Make sure the screw is secure and made of stainless steel, or substitute with a more appropriate way to hang or attach the toy. Key rings are known to catch and pinch birds as well. Goofy or plastic links may be safer. If your preference is to use a plastic link, make sure the link is larger than the birds head.


There are lots of toys on the market which target the plucking bird, or the owner who fears their bird might begin to pluck. Many of these toys have hidden dangers, such as feathers which cover filment and thin wiring, or, they may contain hundreds of strings. Strips of clean, white paper woven in cage bars, unwaxed bathroom, or dixie cups, and rolls of white adding machine tape, can offer hours of preening and chewing alternatives. Acrylic and vegatable dyed foot toys, which are easy for Quakers to pick up with beak or foot, are wonderful toys. Any dyed leather should be vegetable dyed as well. Popcicle sticks, the old fashioned wooden clothespins, without the wire "snap" feature, are fun. Untreated, uncoated, natural woven baskets make a great toy holder and play spot.



Avian related products are manufactured and sold for the maufacturer and the seller to make a profit. That does not mean all are necessary or safe for your bird. Impulse buying, be it bird or product, does not allow the buyer to make adequate choices. Taking the time to do some homework first, understanding and recognizing what is healthful and what is harmful, what is necessary and what is unnecessary, allows you to make the best choices for your bird and still remain within a budget you may have set. Make a list of avian supplies you need or want to purchase beforehand. If you are purchasing a bird for the first time, or a specific species for the first time, speak to experienced owners first. Ask them which products and equipment they find essential, useful, and safe. If you are serious about adding a bird to your household, try to purchase and set up the cage well in advance of bringing home the bird. This eliminates being pushed to purchses items that you might not really need. If you already have one or more birds at home and are adding another, setting up the new bird's cage will help prepare your birds for the new arrival.

Before bringing home a new bird, you should have a vet in place. Discussion with your vet will help you to understand that vitamin suppliments, over the counter medicines and "remedies" administered without vet examination and consultation can be harmful to your bird, particularly if you and your vet have decided on a well-balanced formulated diet, which should eliminate the need for additional suppliments. Your vet can also advise you that many products which are designed to keep your bird pest free are not needed and harmful.

Some products you may not want to spend your money on:

  • Grit-is not needed for parrots and can cause crop and digestive impaction. A better solution is to supply your Quaker with fresh, raw vegetables, cleaned groundup eggs shells, on occassion, or cuttle bone shavings.
  • Cedar, pine, redwood, pressure-treated wood (including shavings) walnut shell, or corncob bedding- the fumes from cedar, pine, redwood, and pressure-treated wood can be toxic or fatal. All, including walnut shell and corn cob bedding, can cause crop and digestive impaction, if ingested. Black and white newspaper is inexpensive and serves very well as a catch all for droppings on the cage floor. Black and white newsprint is printed with soy or vegetable based dyes, which are non toxic to your bird.
  • Mite Protectors- Most indoor birds are not exposed to mites, so there is no need to use a product which can prove toxic. Most mite protectors contain the same ingredients as mothballs, which are also toxic to birds.
  • Salt Products- over consumption of salt can cause excess drinking and urinating, depression, neurological hyperactivity, tremors, and death. While some amounts of Iodine are necessary in your bird's diet, the correct amount should be available in a proper formulated diet.


  • A warning note:

    Sandy and cement perches placed improperly in the cage where they might be overused, may cause sores and orthopedic problems. Some birds tend to chew them, once again, running the risk of crop and digestive impaction. If you must use a sandy or cement perch, it should be used in a location that the bird does not stay in for prolonged persiods. Natural branches or perches of varied size and shape, will work just as well to keep nails trimmed.

    Cotton rope perches give cushioning to birdie feet, but must be watched for fraying.




    ZINC

    All birds require certain amounts of zinc for health. An excess of zinc produces toxicity in birds, which can lead to degeneration in the liver, kidney and pancreas and even death. Zinc is a cumulative poison, not easily eliminated from the body.

    There are two types of zinc poisoning: acute and chronic. Acute toxicity is caused when a bird ingests a metallic object containing zinc or flakes of paint which contain zinc pigments.

    Chronic toxicity usually occurs when small amounts of zinc are consistently consumed.

    Often times, unsafe bird toys, or things used to secure toys, like non stainless steel Quik Links, and metal chains, are the culprit. Or a bird might come in contact with common household objects, such as metal twist ties inadvertantly. Metal twist ties should never be used to secure objects in a cage. Galvanized dishes can also be a cause of zinc poisoning because zinc is soluble in soft water and in acids. Zinc can contaminate water or food and be consumed. In this case, the amount of zinc ingested is constantly being resupplied and causing internal damage to the bird's organs. Zinc rust from galvanized wire can be another cause of zinc poisoning.Examine all toys, dishes, dish holders, and things you might buy to secure objects in cages or on play stands and gyms, carefully, before purchase.

    CAGES

    Birds can injest flakes of paint. Most cage manufacturers use safe paints and powder coating, but it is very important to ask questions when buying a cage. If you have a cage with chipping paint, you should get the paint flakes tested for toxicity. If it is toxic, then either strip and repaint the cage or replace it. If you choose to repaint a cage, be sure to use paints which are both lead and zinc free. Many anti-rust paints contain zinc.

    Hardware cloth is a very poorly made form of galvanized wire and should never be used. Some cages are made with galvanized wire. Galvanized metal which has been electroplated is safe, but galvanized wire (hot dipped) is not. Again, you need to ask plenty of questions when you are purchasing a cage. Toxicity can be reduced, (but NOT eliminated), by scrubbing the wire with a brush and vinegar or a mild acidic solution. This removes any loose pieces and the white rust (zinc oxide) which forms on the wire. Over time more white rust which is also poisonous will form, so enclosures must be re-treated periodically. It's best to avoid purchasing galvanized cages. The above should be seriously considered if you are toying with the idea of constructing your own cage.


    OTHER SOURCES OF ZINC

  • Clips and Staples
  • Snaps
  • Zippers
  • Keys
  • Nails and Nuts
  • Costume jewelry and metal beads
  • Hanging window or shade pulls
  • Pennies since 1982 (96% - 98% zinc)
  • Monopoly game pieces (98% zinc)

  • SYMPTOMS OF ZINC POISONING

    Common signs of zinc poisoning include: excessive urine in feces (polyuria), gastrointestinal problems, polydipsia, weight loss, weakness, anemia, cyanosis, hyperglycemia and seizures. Feather plucking has also been a reported symptom.

    Birds with Acute zinc toxicity usually demonstate lethargy, weight loss, greenish diarrhia, loss of balance. Chronic zinc toxicity symptoms include intermittent lethargy, dysphagia and depression.

    If you suspect your bird may have zinc poisioning, take the bird immediately to a veterinarian. The vet should perform a blood serum test which measures the level of zinc in the blood. Treatment will vary according to the degree of poisoning and vet.