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QUAKER ANATOMY







Information presented on the QPSerc pages is gathered from avian articles, books, reference materials, and the result of extensive discussion with Quaker owners, breeders, researchers, behaviorists, and avian veterinarians. It is not intended to replace the valuable information which your personal avian veterinarian shares with you.

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PESKY PESTS



GRAIN MOTH• INDIAN MOTH •MEDITERRANEAN FLOUR MOTH

On this page, we are discussing toxins, particularly air-borne toxins, in addition to pests. Understanding the avian anatomy and it's respiratory system helps we Quaker owners better understand why certain toxins affect our birds. For pictures of the avian respiratory system and anatomy, as well as simple, easy to understand text about our Quakers anatomy, visit QUAKER ANATOMY.

BUGS & BRANCHES

Natural branches used as perches and in areas of play are beneficial. Walking on natural branches provides a varied surface and texture for your bird's feet to help prevent arthritis. Clean branches which are safe for avian consumption, are great fun for your bird to chew and wipe its beak on. With a little work, they're very cost effective!

Do not use branches that have been sprayed with insecticides or those with growths or lichens. Wash branches in a mixture of bleach and water and rinse, rinse, rinse, to clean and kill pests who may inhabit the branches. Air and dry washed branches completely in the sun. Some people "bake" their branches in the oven at a low temperature.

Check against the SAFE & TOXIC PLANT lists to make sure that branches you have gathered are non toxic.

MOTHS- It's a lovely night. You've put your Quaker to bed. All 's quiet on the home front. You dim the lights, turn on the tv, and settle back in a comfortable chair. And then they come....tiny creatures on the wing; itty, bitty moth pests. They don't bite, but they do have a hefty appetite for lots of goodies in your pantry, and they never want to leave!

The most common moths found in stored foods, feed, and seed, are the Indian meal moth, Mediterranean flour moth and Grain Moth. They're attracted by food; flour of course, rice, cereals, corn meal, oatmeal, and many boxed mixes, nuts, candy, dried fruit, dog ,cat, and bird food. The moths lay their eggs on food, or near food, such as in cracks and crevasses in shelving and cupboards. While they are doing a good job of pestering you at night and causing you to throw away a good amount of spoiled food by day, females moths are attacting males moths. They release a natural chemical called pheromone to find just the right guy.

The first thing to do is toss out the food they've inhabited. If you don't see moths actually emerge from packaging when you open it, you may see little clumps of cob webby things, or larvae, or eggs. Vacuum all shelves, shelf corners, and crevasses well and throw out the vacuum bag after. Wash down any place you've suspected moths to have been.

Some people suggust sprinkling bay leaves on shelves where moths have set up camp. Others suggest putting a few cloves in the food they are attracted to. These suggestions may deter moths, but will not elimate them.

Moth traps are available at avian related stores, on or off line, and at hardware stores. They contain small tabs of pheromone, a non toxic chemical, the same natural chemical we discussed above. The moth trap interior is sticky. Male moths smell the pheromone, and are lured into the trap. If there are no males present to mate with the females, egg production stops.

You can take precautions when bringing new food into the house. Bird food can be refrigerated or frozen before opening. Once open, it can be kept in air-tight containers. Try not to buy from bulk containers, but buy individual packaging that you can look over before purchase in good light. Do not purchase packaging that has been opened or crushed. Periodically inspect food and toss flours, etc. that have been used for a long period of time.

! Moth balls and cedar can prove toxic to birds. !

There are 2 different types of moth balls. One contains naphthalene. The other contains paradichlorobenzene. It is the fumes of these 2 chemicals which kill moths and their larvae. Naphthalene and paradichlorobenzene sublimate, which means they change from a solid to a gas, and it is the gas which is toxic to the moths and to birds.

Some species of cedar are considered toxic to avians if ingested. Certainly, cedar berries are toxic, but because cedar is so aromatic, the fumes, as well, can prove toxic to avian respiratory systems.


MITES- It's uncommon to find mites on our indoor avians. Don't be mislead by salespersons who try to convince you that mite protectors or mite sprays are essential. If you suspect you bird has mites, if your bird has been in contact with other birds who may have mites, or your bird has been exposed to mites in an environment that supports mites, then visit your veterinarian, but don't rely on mite protectors or sprays, which are extremely toxic.

Mite protectors on a cage have little or no effect in controlling mite infestations on companion birds. Mites must come in direct contact with the mite box in order for the chemical to do its job. Since the mites would spend most of their time on the bird, protectors have no purpose. However, having the boxes that close to the bird, you run the risk of your bird chewing and swallowing the toxic insecticide, along with constantly inhaling the fumes emitted by the mite protector. It is much safer to have your bird examined and treated for mites by your veterinarian.

Ants and Fruit Flies


Unlike moths, which can plague a household at any time, ants and fruit fleas appear to invade seasonally. How encouraging! There are lots of products on the market which can help you control the seasonal onslaught of ants. Reading product labels is always important. Your bird, its cage, and all toys, etc, should be removed from the area if you use toxic sprays. The area should be well ventilated and odor free before returning the bird, and its housing, and toys. Traps should be placed where you are certain your bird cannot access them. Boric acid and Camacide seem to be the most used and effective ant deterrents.

Keep cages clean and remove all fresh foods from cages as soon as the bird has finished. Residue from beak wiping on cage bars and perches should be cleaned as soon as possible so as not to encourage ants and fruit flies to forage in or near your bird's cage. A solutions of equal parts vinegar and water is great for cleaning cages and deterring ants.

For non-toxic ant deterrents, some people sprinkle Bay Leaf, Cinnamon and Cayenne pepper at points of entrance to discourage ants. Others spray full strenth, liquid peppermint soap. Some sprinkle Tumeric. Finely ground herbs seem to affect the ants ability to breath. If you're really desperate, cage legs can be placed in shallow pans filled with water; like small moats that ants cannot cross.

Fruit flies reproduce in areas where there is moist, fermenting organic manner available. Your bird's water bowl, fruit and veggies, as well as discarded food at the cage bottom, are very inviting to the fruit fly. During fruit fly season, it is really important to take extra care to remove fresh foods as soon as possible after your bird is finished with them. As you would to deter ants, cage bars, bottoms and trays need to be wiped down frequently. Tray papers should be discarded and replaced often. Water dishes or bottles should be washed and water changed often.

Some non toxic ways to trap fruit flies are:

Place some of the birds' discarded soft food in a plastic Ziploc bag in the evening. By morning, the bag is full of fruit flies. Seal the bag and throw it out.

Place saucers of fruity fragrant wine with a few drops of detergent in areas frequented by fruit flies. (Fruit flies seem to like Chardonnay!).

Place fragrant fruit peels, like mango, in the bottom of wine bottles. Fruit flies fly in and cannot fly out.